Drilling snaps to attach screen room??

[Amasake]

Hello! I recently received really (really!!) good advice on this forum concerning bag awnings -- I went ahead and purchased a Shademaker-brand for my Starcraft 1701, and also a screen room to go with it.

(link to screen room: http://www.rvworkshop.com/index.php/products/bag-awning-screen-room )

The awning, as many of you assured me, slid right into the rail just like it was supposed to. Score!

The screen room, though... that seems trickier. It came with some velcro tape to stick along the front of the awning, and then there are also some "male" snaps pre-attached to the back of the screen room along with a little bag of "female" snaps that I *think* I'm supposed to screw into the side of the pop-up. Does that sound right?

I hesitate to start drilling, though -- don't wanna do any permanent damage, don't wanna make spots for water to get in, or otherwise create problems.

I've been googling variations of "instructions attach Shademaker awning screen room" without much success. Nothing so far addresses those snaps...

I'm thinking to heck with the snaps, maybe I should buy a roll of velco tape instead and just seal the screen room to the pop up that way... is that a crazy idea?

Anyone have any experience with these things? What's the best way to set this awning/screenroom thing up? Do I need washers or silicon sealant or something to water-proof the snaps (if they are, indeed, to be drilled into the pop up)

Very confused! My goodness I could use some input, please. Have only had my PUP out twice so far and have caused quite a few little dings already, heheeh. Please help me so I don't do too, too much damage to this poor camper!!




Much obliged,

Carolyn

[Spirit Deer]

Welcome!

The easiest way to set up the awning and screen room is to set up the awning before the roof is raised on the trailer.  At that time, you can also attach the top of the screen room to the awning so you don't have to try to reach it when it's all the way up.  Then put the roof up on the trailer and finish your screen room setup.

Did you install the screws at each end of the awning so it can't escape from the rail?  Very important. 

Yes, you will need to install the screws on the side of the trailer, unfortunately.  But the first one hurts the worst!  After that, IMO it gets easier.

Velcro stuck to the side would not hold up to the sun and rain. 

Set up the awning and screen room.  Tape the screen room panels where they will attach to the camper with duct tape, using small pieces of tape rather than one long strip.  Step back and see if you have it taped on straight and make sure it's exactly how you'll want it permanently.  Make sure it all lines up with the skirt that goes under the door, too.  If anything is off, adjust.  This is your last chance to make changes, since of course once you start making holes, you're pretty much committed.  If all's well, then use a Sharpie and make little black dots exactly under the center of the snaps on the screen room.

Select a drill bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw.  When you hold the drill bit in front of the screw on the snap, you should be able to see the threads on either side of the drill bit.  That will be the proper size bit.  Pre-drill all the holes you have marked, making sure you only go through the skin of the trailer and not through the entire wall, and the worst will be over.  Put a small dot of caulk on one hole at a time, then immediately screw in the snap.  Be gentle because the screws in the snaps like to strip if you're too forceful.  The screw should be snug, but don't try to over-tighten.  Repeat till all the snaps are installed.    Let the caulk set up a day or two before snapping/unsnapping the screen room.

[brgmgb]

I just installed snaps on a boat for the boat cover.  The provided screws were self-tapping, but I still drilled a 1/4" hole as a guide.  I used the cordless drill with Phillips bit as a power screwdriver to get the screw started but finished tightening by hand.  Just take your time and you'll be OK.

[Amasake]

You guys are lifesavers, or at least, PUP savers!!

Gonna take a look at the snaps again (step one in working up my nerve!) and will buzz back if I have anymore questions... thank you again sooooo much!!!

[Spirit Deer]

Working up your nerve is the hardest part, believe me.  You'll do fine!  Just take your time and BE SURE where you want to put anything that involves drilling holes. 

Don't forget to set up the skirt under the door, because that'll attach to the sides of the screen room and therefore has to be in the right place along with the screen room sides.

[chipperone1]

 The Add A Room that I put on my '08 Fleetwood Bayside has velcro and snaps that were added to the awning rail that holds the support poles. No snaps went on the side of the pup, a small hook went on the flat above and below the side. If I was going to attach snaps to the thin metal skin of a pup I would not use screws, RIVETS would be my choice. They will hold much better.

[ScoobyDoo]

  Puting moldings on a fresh paint job, I thought to use a hand powered drill (from a hobby shop, worked like grama's mixer) to drill holes. Not near as fast as power, but will not walk and scratch where you don't want the hole. If using a power drill, lock the switch as slow as you can.
    Unplug from shore power, probably no wiring where you needto drill but don't bet your life!

[On The Lam]

I second the opinion to start the screw with a power drill/driver, but finish tightening by hand.  Easy to strip out screws when there's not much substance behind it.

[wavery]

I certainly 2nd the motion for pop-rivets vs screws, if there is no wood behind the sheet metal.

Either way, I would recommend dipping the screw in 3M 5200 before inserting it. It will not only prevent water intrusion, it will better secure the screw and help prevent stripping.