Repairing roof question..

[hollisatp1]

Hey all so I have finally found corner caps for my 1983 Coleman Sequoia and wanted to reseal the roof... All of the caps need to be replaced because they were cracked and had pieces missing.. Not sure on the correct lingo so Ill try to explain it in my words... The metal rails that run around the entire top are loose... I can see that the caulk has worn out and has separated from the metal top of the camper.. The camper was in a hail storm and has quite a bit of small dings on the top also.. So here are my questions... Is there anything I can do to the roof dings? THe paint on top also needs a fresh coat.. What do you all recommend to paint the roof, type of caulk or silicone for the side rails? THe rails have a bit of play in them when I latch it down for travel also... is there an easy way to repair this? Final question.. there is a strip that runs down the roof from front to back in the middle.. It looks like it is a .5 inch track for maybe a rubber strip?? Not sure I have to repair that also? or just paint around it..??
Thanks for the help again..

[austinado16]

By "metal rails that run around the entire top are loose" are you talking about the metal trim on the base of the roof, where the roof sets down onto the camper box?  If so, this is screwed up into the wood planks, or plywood "planks" that are used to create the sides and ends of the roof.  The screws are hidden by the rubber gasket that's inside that metal trim.  Generally, when this trim is loose, it means the wood that it screws into, has rotted due to water getting between the trim and the side and end walls.  You can sometimes cheat and use longer screws.

There are quite a few roof caulk products.  One of the most popular is Dicor Self Leveling.  The beauty of this stuff is that it shrinks up tight and smooths itself out as it cures, so it makes your work look great.  It's also bulletproof.  It's made for use on horizontal surfaces, but if you're careful, you can use it on the entire roof.  Otherwise, the company makes a product for the non-horizontal work.

The center trim strip does take a vinyl filler strip.  These are available on a pre-cut roll, in 2 different widths, or off a bulk roll at most RV supply places.  Usually the center trim takes the wider version of filler strip.

Nothing you can do about the hail dents.

As far as paint goes, you can use a roller and prime and then paint with an oil based paint made for metal/fiberglass, etc.  When I painted mine, I purchased a quart of primer, and a quart of a tan that matched my camper's tan.  Rolled both on with a heavy nap roller so that I had a similar texture to the original roof's texture.  We're starting the 6th season on that paint job.

Some people paint theirs with a product called Grizzly Grip.  You might check that out too.

[hollisatp1]

Great thanks for the info...

[hollisatp1]

ok so I began to take off the metal trim on the rear of the top. The material is actually foam and not wood.. The left and right side is wood and seems to be holding up great... thanks for the help..

[hollisatp1]

So the foam on the front and the back of the roof sides is a bit loose when I took out the screws to remove the side rails. Do I need to replace the wood that is over the foam? Or is there a way to reinforce the screw holes? I feel that when I screw them back in, they will strip or just not grip anything. Bindo? Wood glue?

[austinado16]

Sorry, I'm not familiar with your roof's construction, so I can't offer advice.  But maybe if you post some good photos.....

[hollisatp1]

ok.. ill get some pics.. can anyone tell me what the tape is under the middle strip on the top? This strip covers the middle seam on top of the roof.. I wanted to replace this before paining it..  It is black and looks sticky..

[austinado16]

Instead of pulling up that middle strip and risking bending all to hell, consider just caulking the sides with the Dicor Self Leveling, and replacing the center vinyl strip.

[RFHVA]

Hi guys, I’ve been away for a while.  My dad passed away from ALS a year ago April 29th and that had been keeping me busy along with his estate afterwards.  I am now back into the process of repainting my PUP all white with new graphics (custom for the side of a car).  Someone had barb wire ones I kind of liked.  This is what I thought would be best for my PUP.  YMMV.  Other suggestions are of course welcome and appreciated.  Ask question me if you need to.  Let me know if I left anything out.  Anyway...

I just replaced the corners, caulked, and repainted my roof last Saturday.  My '86 Laramie sounds identical to yours.  I did not pull the side trim off though.  I did scrape it with a utility knife, razor blade, and wire brush before snugging the screws up that are on the bottom side.  There is also a screw on each end and the middle along the side.  As for your hail damage, I think you are stuck with it (so am I).  The only way to get to it would require a rebuild of the roof.

The center middle strip

Thru all of my searching I was never able to find out how Coleman actually did it originally.  I did mine by removing it (it's pretty rigid and tuff), scraping all of the caulk and/or double-stick black tape off, wiped down with Acetone then MEK, then painted just a few inches wide with white aerosol Rustoleum and let it dry (was actually Thursday night for this part).  Friday after work I used caulk tape (7/8" I think) and stuck it to the underside of the roof trim piece so it goes on nice and even.  I then installed the trim piece turned around the opposite direction (front/back it had the same length bent down sections) so the holes would line up on fresh wood.  I then used DICOR self-leveling caulk after removing any squeegeed caulk with a razor blade down each side of the roof trim the only about 3" down the front and rear sides (I'll explain why at the end).  I then sprayed the trim piece and caulk (after it “skinned”) a few inches wide from both sides of the PUP with a good coat of paint.

The plastic corners-

This was also Friday after work.  Each corner took about half and hour or so.  One at a time, remove the six screws, pull the cap off.  Remove as much of the caulk and double-stick tape as possible.  Diligent scraping and pick are necessary.  Acetone or lacquer thinner will help dissolve it and will remove your paint too (remember, I’m repainting anyway).  I then put two strips of non-overlapping caulk tape side-by-side on the roof right where the old stuff was.  Now push the cap down firmly (a warm day helps) onto place for a test fit.  I then did a few more test fits to see where more caulk tape was needed to get a good fit.  Push it in for the final time and trim the excess caulk.  Don’t DICOR caulk the sides yet.

Side trim-

I was lucky I guess.  I picked and scraped the seam between the side trim and roof real good then tightened the screws.

Center seam vinyl trim-

This piece keeps water (or at least blocks direct rain) from getting down into the roof by the screw holes and gives it a nice finished look.  All this writing and it only takes about 15 minutes to do.  Get about 3 feet longer than your box size (I got 14’ to be safe for my camper of a 10’ box).  My local store sells this stuff for 29 cents per foot.  Take out the bottom two screws of the center seam trim where it meets the edge trim (this is why I did not want you to caulk this section).  Make a taper cut of about 3/16” by 2” long on each side of the trim vinyl trim at one end only (you’ll cut the other end when you get to it).  This trim gets sandwiched between the caulk and roof trim piece (NOT roof and caulk or it may leak later).  Put the two screws back in thru the trim piece so it holds it in place now.  Flip it up onto the roof and start inserting it into the trim and work your way to the other end.  The final end is a little more tricky.  What I did was to mark mine to determine where the bend would be to go back under the trim, then I cut it 3” past that.  I then undid the last 2 feet where I had tucked it in already so I could stretch it to get some slack so I could put the two screws back in.  Then just start putting the portion you undid back in and it will kind of shrink back into place.

DICOR caulking-

Now is the time to caulk.  It’s still Friday night.  I just kind of went around the camper top.  I started in the rear and did the short piece on the roof trim that I told you not to do in the beginning (now you know why).  I then went clock-wise down the rear trim, up around the left rear new corner trim, down the left side trim, etc., finishing up with the rear roof trim section.

Painting-

I let the caulk dry/cure for a few hours at least.  I waited until about 9am Saturday morning before the heat came up, the DICOR caulk had shrunken down quite well.  I used a throw away 4” foam roller and a quart (only about 3/4) of white Rustoleum.  I first brushed all of the hard to get places like the hold-down latches and the underside of the side and rear trim.  Since the center trim was already sprayed with matching paint, I rolled up to the center trim and just touched it with the roller (but not the vinyl insert).  Rolled the whole thing in about 18” square sections that over lapped.  I did it twice and it took about 1.5 hours.

Very satisfied with the results for both aesthetics and waterproofing (prevention).  It is blindingly white now.  Maybe that’s good for the sun’s rays.  I’ll turtle wax it later this year.

Now it is off to work on the sides.  I just noticed most of the screws along the left side have been pulled thru the aluminum side along the bottom.  We won’t even mention the front and rear plastic panels (but I know what to do).

Good luck - Frank

[hollisatp1]

I did kinda the same.. I used the caulk to fill some of the deep hail dents.. scraped over them with a credit card to level them out.. waited about an hour then painted it with Flat White Rustolium. i used a heavy nap roller. Only problem is the caulk, or paint, is not drying properly.. the rest of the top has dried nicely, but the caulk covered spots are still tacky to the touch.. they do not feel soft when pressed on, only like the caulk is reacting with the paint and not letting the top layer dry... It has begun to dry ove the last 2 days.... but I think I painted it too soon.. Deepest the caulk is is about .25 inches... Anyone ever hear of this?

[yooperguy]

^^It does sound like the caulk didn't cure and is reacting with the paint.  Depending on the type of caulk, it can take a long time to fully cure. 

[RFHVA]

You may have sealed the solvents from the caulk under the paint - or at least they are migrating thru pretty slowly.  There could be a chemical reaction going on too as mentioned above (I was typing as it popped in).  If it was mine I'd give it a few weeks if permissable and see if it hardens up.  Otherwise, you probably need to remove it and let a day or two pass between the steps.

Maybe just use some paint thinner to remove the paint and see if the caulk will cure before totally removing it.  Then paint it a few days later and see what happens.  Maybe even just paint one spot first as a test.

We are talking DICOR self-leveling caulk right, not the caulk tape?

[hollisatp1]

no.. I used a product by GE called Groov.. wont crack, shrink, paintable in 30 minutes... But paintable with a bead size of 1/8th... When I push on it , it seems to be hardened... but only the top is tacky.. nothing comes off on my finger when I press on it.. it looks today as if it is really slowly drying... I am going to give it a cpl days and see what happens.. Going to travel colorado next week for 8 days in the rockies so I want it to be sealed... thanks for all the help..

[RFHVA]

Lucky you!  I haven't been out that way in years.  I'm just south of the DC beltway and pretty much only get to our somewhat local beaches (VA and NC) and up to southern PA (Lancaster).

As long as it is waterproof you're good to go!

[hollisatp1]

I believe it is.... just wanted to be done with that little project for now... CO should be fun! We were a backpaking minimalits couple, but with a 2 year old it was time for some more comfort to allow her to enjoy it.. Great Sand Dunes for 2 days then Rocky Mountains!
Thanks for all the help..