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Author Topic: 1992 Coleman/Fleetwood Destiny Royale  (Read 14213 times)
Air3
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« on: December 28, 2011, 02:12:13 PM »

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   I recently received a 1992 Coleman/Fleetwood Destiny Royale as a gift. The PU is in excellent condition - canvas is original and just about perfect. The roof doesn't leak. The windows are clean and pliable. The interior looks to be in good condition. Those are the pros. The cons - exterior is fairly dirty with some mildew and algae, and some unknown issues. The unknowns are the following: the PU sat in the central Florida sun for the last two years without being opened - not sure what damage, if any, took place; I am not sure of the condition of the propane sytem, the furnace, the converter, electrical, and water.
 
  I have replaced the wheelsets, packed the bearings, replaced burnt out bulbs, and replaced the corroded safety chains. As it is now winter in PA I will not open up till spring and cannot address the other issues. If anyone knows of any obvious concerns with such a long layover in the hot humid Florida summers and recent colder Florida winters please let me know.

  I did bring it back up from Florida with no difficulties. My TV is a Kia Sorento AWD V6. At times it hardly seemed like I was towing anything at all so no worries there. I need to check but I am pretty sure that I have a tranny cooler that came with my towing package. The TV is rated to 3500 and the PU is only about 1225 so I have no concerns regarding the upper limit of the TV.

  I have been a tent camper for many years and this is my first experience with PU camping so any advice will be greatly appreciated.

  Tight lines,

  Christopher
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NUcamper
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« Reply #1 on: December 28, 2011, 02:25:54 PM »

Tires would be my first concern. Look to see the date code on the existing tires. Replace all three if more than six years old. Stay away from the cheap Chinese junk. ( I know, that statement is easier said than done)

Plenty of "stuff" on the market to clean the outside trailer skin.  I use Trailer Glitter-RV wash, but there are several brands that will work fine and give you excellent results. 

Good luck and happy camping.

BTW... welcome to the board.  You'll get lots of suggestions from the friendly people here.
« Last Edit: December 28, 2011, 02:27:59 PM by NUcamper » Logged

2009 camping nights = 50
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« Reply #2 on: December 28, 2011, 02:28:54 PM »

Welcome to the Pux, Air3 and congrats on the NTU Pup!

I am a big fan of the older Colemans as you can see by my sig. Big Smile

As far as the interior goes, it sounds like everything is good, but I would check the ceiling carefully for moisture damage (bubbles, screws coming out of loose wood, etc) and make sure that you caulk all the seams of the roof with a high quality caulk, like Dicor self leveling caulk. Keeping your camper moisture tight is the number one thing you can do to protect it's longevity.

On the exterior, again it sounds like you have checked all of the areas I would be concerned about. Check the manufacture date of the tires and if they are over 5 years old replace them, even if the tread looks good. Time and exposure to the elements is the enemy of camper tires and you don't want a trips spoiled due to tire failure.

Make sure your propane regulator is in good working order and then yu can test your gas appliances one at a time. I always start with my stove top burners and keep them lit while I light every thing else. If you smell gas stop and locate the source of the leak.

Post any questions you have here, we have many knowledgeable people who are eager to help.

Good Luck,
Brian
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« Reply #3 on: December 28, 2011, 03:46:09 PM »

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Thanks for the feedback gentleman.  I need to get the registration taken care of, fairly simple here in PA. Follow up question - is it advisable or not to connect to your home power to check electric? I am thinking of facing cabinets with quarter inch clear birch ply as the Florida heat did a number on the contact paper facing. Any ideas there?

Christopher

1992 Coleman Royale 
  Pennsylvania
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« Reply #4 on: December 28, 2011, 06:44:39 PM »

No problem connecting it to home power. Same as at the campground. You will need to buy an adapter plug if your converter is more than 15 amps. Any RV dealer will have them and cost is minimal.

The birch ply is fine although you are adding weight. May not be a big deal for you as long as you have plenty of Maximum Carrying Capacity.

You might want to go over to the owners manual section at PopUp Portal. You can download the sales brochere and likely the owner's manual there. Will come in handy. At Ketelsens Camper you can download the parts manual.
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Brian
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« Reply #5 on: December 28, 2011, 06:46:25 PM »

 PopUp Cyan  SUV Green

Thanks for the feedback gentleman.  I need to get the registration taken care of, fairly simple here in PA. Follow up question - is it advisable or not to connect to your home power to check electric? I am thinking of facing cabinets with quarter inch clear birch ply as the Florida heat did a number on the contact paper facing. Any ideas there?

Christopher

1992 Coleman Royale 
  Pennsylvania

Most of us do hook up our campers to to an outlet in our garage or home. You will want to make sure to use a circuit that does not have a lot of other appliances running on it while you have the camper hooked up and if you have a roof a/c (hopefully not  Big Smile) you will need a 20A circuit with no other current drain.

In addition you will need an adapter for the camper power cord. You can spend up to $30 or more for the "dogbone" style adapter or about $5 for this one, that I use (I also keep a spare in my truck)



Others with more woodworking knowledge can advise about the cabinets.

Brian
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« Reply #6 on: December 28, 2011, 07:01:49 PM »

Hey guys,

I got really lucky with many of the things you mentioned. The best surprise I received was that all the literature for the pup is still there in pretty much mint condition. This includes the manual for not only the camper but also the furnace, wedgewood inserts, stove, wiring diagrams, and even the original wheel warranty. All this makes me wonder if I should make any mods at all given it is in such excellent original condition. Any thoughts?

Christopher  DH '67
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« Last Edit: December 28, 2011, 07:06:37 PM by Air3 » Logged
mike4947
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« Reply #7 on: December 28, 2011, 09:28:36 PM »

As with any RV no matter how old you're not going to see the value increase, so go ahead and do to it what ever you need to make it more cofortable for you and the family.

As for the tires; replace the valve stems right along with the tires as even if they are "metal high pressure" stems they have a rubber seal that dry rots as fast or faster than the tires.

Do an online search for a manual for your converter. Many in that era needed a battery to prevent quite high (19+ volts) voltage spikes. With out a battery you'll be replacing light bulbs regularly.
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« Reply #8 on: December 29, 2011, 06:01:06 AM »

Congrats on the NTU pup.

Like Brian and many of us out there who like the older colemans and older pups in general.

I can't agree more on the advice already given. your pup sound cherry. Also like brian said, I'd inspect the ceiling well. These pups were notorious for developing pin holes in aluminum skin and leaks around where the caulking is. Poke around the wood in the ceiling near where the canvas attaches to it looking for soft spots.
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« Reply #9 on: December 29, 2011, 06:57:13 AM »

You will need to buy an adapter plug if your converter is more than 15 amps.

Often repeated advice but totally erroneous as the converter's DC rating has nothing to do with the trailer's 120 vac main service rating, which in the case of a popup of this vintage could be 15 amp service or 30 amp service.  A trailer could have no converter at all and it still wouldn't have any bearing at all on the trailer's main service rating.  As it happens the 1992 Fleetwood Royale is wired with 30 amp main service using a 10 gauge 30 amp rated RV cable that terminates with a male 30 amp RV plug and as mentioned the OP can plug into a standard 120 vac 15 amp or 20 amp household receptacle using a 30 amp female > 15 amp male adapter ... but this has nothing to do with the size of the converter installed in the trailer.
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« Reply #10 on: December 29, 2011, 07:05:23 AM »

Air3,
Welcome to PUX.

Don't worry about making modifications yet....  Go camping - several times.  Then think about what YOU might want to change.
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« Reply #11 on: December 29, 2011, 08:51:24 AM »

You will need to buy an adapter plug if your converter is more than 15 amps.

Often repeated advice but totally erroneous as the converter's DC rating has nothing to do with the trailer's 120 vac main service rating, which in the case of a popup of this vintage could be 15 amp service or 30 amp service.  A trailer could have no converter at all and it still wouldn't have any bearing at all on the trailer's main service rating.  As it happens the 1992 Fleetwood Royale is wired with 30 amp main service using a 10 gauge 30 amp rated RV cable that terminates with a male 30 amp RV plug and as mentioned the OP can plug into a standard 120 vac 15 amp or 20 amp household receptacle using a 30 amp female > 15 amp male adapter ... but this has nothing to do with the size of the converter installed in the trailer.
Well, you learn something new everyday. I was under the impression that the converter rating was for A/C. So you're saying a 15a converter can have a 20 or 30 amp plug? Or a 30a converter can have a 15a plug?
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« Reply #12 on: December 29, 2011, 09:39:00 AM »

Well, you learn something new everyday. I was under the impression that the converter rating was for A/C. So you're saying a 15a converter can have a 20 or 30 amp plug? Or a 30a converter can have a 15a plug?

A converter's rating is a statement of it's maximum current output at 12 volts DC, not it's 120 vac input, so as an example a "20 amp" converter would draw about 1/10th of that at 120 vac, or roughly 2 amps ... so even a trailer that's wired with just 15 amp main service would still offer ~13 amps to power other 120 vac devices.  I say "roughly" because of course no converter is 100% efficient ... regardless, the trailer could be wired with 15 amp or 30 amp main service.  A case in point ...

My own 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe had a Centurion CS2000 20 amp converter because I ordered the trailer with the hot water option ... if I hadn't it would have had a CS1200 12 amp converter.  Most annoying though was that Fleetwood in their "infinite wisdom" decided to wire US models with 30 amp main service while those destined for sale here in Canada were wired with just 15 amp, but in either case it had nothing to do with which size of converter was installed.
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« Reply #13 on: December 29, 2011, 09:49:30 AM »

You will need to buy an adapter plug if your converter is more than 15 amps.

Often repeated advice but totally erroneous as the converter's DC rating has nothing to do with the trailer's 120 vac main service rating, which in the case of a popup of this vintage could be 15 amp service or 30 amp service.  A trailer could have no converter at all and it still wouldn't have any bearing at all on the trailer's main service rating.  As it happens the 1992 Fleetwood Royale is wired with 30 amp main service using a 10 gauge 30 amp rated RV cable that terminates with a male 30 amp RV plug and as mentioned the OP can plug into a standard 120 vac 15 amp or 20 amp household receptacle using a 30 amp female > 15 amp male adapter ... but this has nothing to do with the size of the converter installed in the trailer.

Well, you learn something new everyday. I was under the impression that the converter rating was for A/C. So you're saying a 15a converter can have a 20 or 30 amp plug? Or a 30a converter can have a 15a plug?
Be careful with that one. If your camper has a 30A converter and you are using a 15A outlet (with an adapter) be sure to not exceed 15A at your camper by running the A/C and microwave at the same time. In theory, overloading the 15A circuit should trip the 15A breaker at the house (or wherever) but I wouldn't want to test it. I've seen a lot of burnt/melted 15A outlets in campgrounds....... That leads me to believe that their circuit breakers may not be reliable and there may be a potential for a fire.
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Air3
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« Reply #14 on: December 29, 2011, 10:12:33 PM »

Wow!

You guys are awesome. I can only hope to be half as helpful and encouraging some day to another noob such as myself. I realize that I should have started this thread elsewhere on the site but had already posted before I knew I was on the mods thread, so my appologies for the breach in etiquette.

As to the mods, I was poking around the pup this afternoon and know that I want to replace all the cabinets at some point. Given that I am well under my weight limit for my tv I am not overly concerned with adding some weight.There aren't that many cabinets in the whole unit to begin with so it won't be much in the end anyway. I think that in many of the faces I can just put 1/4" clear birch ply over the existing particle board, using corner molding to add some structure and make it look nice. I've used Tung oil in the past as a finish and it gives a nice warm look and with some patience it is bullet proof.

The converter issue is another thing altogether. I pluged into my home outlet. I have power to the outlets in the pup but no juice to the dome lights in the ceiling. I'm not sure about the power to the furnace as I can't fire it up until I get the whole pup out of the garage. I haven't had the chance to get a battery connected yet. In fact I'm not entirely sure how to do that yet.


I will have pics soon.

Thanks again,
Christopher

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