October 31, 2014, 03:59:34 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News:
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Gallery Login Register  
Pages: [1]
  Print  
Author Topic: Installing a Dual Battery Isolator  (Read 6661 times)
RonJ
Wheel Chocker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 21


« on: September 28, 2011, 01:44:07 AM »

  I'd like to install a dual battery isolator in my 2001 F150. What are the pros and cons of this? Doing a little research online turns up comments such as
"you're wasting your time if you can't run 2/0 welding cable wire",
"the voltage drop across the isolator is sufficient enough that the extra battery never gets a full charge"
etc.etc.
  How do you keep the Pup battery charged?
Logged
Oz and Us
PUX is my life
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 28149


Burlington, Ontario, Canada


WWW
« Reply #1 on: September 28, 2011, 03:01:09 AM »

OR just unplug the trailer from the TV whenever you're not towing ... it's worked just fine for me in all the years I've been towing a recreational trailer. Wink
Logged

Oz Mods Gallery

'14 Freedom Express 192RBS / '05 Avalanche 4x2
'03 Fleetwood Yuma / '05 Avalanche 4x2
'08 KZ Spree 240BH-LX / '05 Avalanche 4x2
'07 RVision TrailCruiser C21RBH / '06 Silverado 4x4
2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe / '98 Explorer 4x4
'98 Jayco Eagle 10UD / '94 Caravan
'69 Coleman CT380 / '65 Impala

"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy!"
mstrbill
Off Duty Moderator
Parking Heckler
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4136


Austin, Tx


WWW
« Reply #2 on: September 28, 2011, 03:38:10 AM »

Those statements have some basis in truth, however 8 gauge wire to the truck plug will allow the battery to charge and power the fridge underway. Keep in mind there are two type of isolators; diode and relay. The diode ones supposedly have a voltage drop across them. For that reason I would use a relay isolator.

However, are you sure your F150 doesn't already have one installed or the socket to install one? Some years F150s only needed to have the 4 pin wiring harness changed out for the 7 pin harness and the rest of the full factory tow wiring was already installed. Some years you just need to purchase some relays and install them in the fuse box under the hood.  And add the 7 pin harness. I would spent some time looking at the wiring on your truck with the help of a manual and see what's there.
Logged

Bill

the Camping Poms: Joy, Tori & Bella the Yorkie
2008 Fleetwood Niagara Highwall -  PopUp Blue  SUV Black - 2004 Chevy Suburban LT
96 Coleman Bayport -  PopUp Blue Pickup Blue - 98 F150SC - lots of great memories, but got tired of fighting the sagging cracking ABS roof
beemerphile1
Parking Heckler
*
Online Online

Posts: 3097


NE Ohio


« Reply #3 on: September 28, 2011, 03:39:13 AM »

I use a simple solenoid, not an isolator.  Cost is $12 - $15.  Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid.
Logged

Tim
32 nights camped in 2014
30 nights camped in 2013
33 nights camped in 2012
36 nights camped in 2011

Momma said; "If you argue with a fool, it makes it hard to tell which one is the fool".


2009 Pontiac Vibe 1.8L towing 2009 Aliner Sport  Chalet/AlinerCar Blue
1998 Ford E150 towing 2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900 TravTrl Long Blue Van Blue
1996 BMW R1100GS
2005 Trek Madone
1994 Burley tandem
RonJ
Wheel Chocker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 21


« Reply #4 on: September 28, 2011, 08:44:47 AM »

Thanks for the responses.
beemerphile-would you care to explain how I'd wire this up?

mstrbill-I'll check the ford manual and under the hood to determine what's there.

Oz-I guess I don't understand your response. I can see that unplugging the trailer and if I happened to have an electrical connection then the electricsl control center on the pup would charge the battery. Is that what you meant?
Logged
mstrbill
Off Duty Moderator
Parking Heckler
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4136


Austin, Tx


WWW
« Reply #5 on: September 28, 2011, 09:11:18 AM »

there's 4 connections to the relay:

12VDC from the Battery
12VDC to the trailer 7 pin socket
12VDC from a ignition switched 12V source
Ground through the relay case.

Oz means you don't need the isolator if you can always remember to disconnect the trailer when you stop for any length of time. However, I disagree, I don't want an always external hot wire/connection on my truck.
Logged

Bill

the Camping Poms: Joy, Tori & Bella the Yorkie
2008 Fleetwood Niagara Highwall -  PopUp Blue  SUV Black - 2004 Chevy Suburban LT
96 Coleman Bayport -  PopUp Blue Pickup Blue - 98 F150SC - lots of great memories, but got tired of fighting the sagging cracking ABS roof
ngatel
PUXaholic
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 6803


Palm Springs, CA


WWW
« Reply #6 on: September 28, 2011, 09:20:48 AM »

If you have the factory tow package, you already have an isolator. Ford uses a relay to accomplish this. Typically the relay was not installed when the customer took delivery of the vehicle, but was in a plastic bag in the glove compartment.

Logged

Official PUX Curmudgeon
Nick Gatel
Palm Springs
92 Starcraft Meteorite
2006 Niagara
2014 Eclipse Milan 26RLS

2000 Ford Explorer
2003 Expedition
2012 Ford Expedition


PopUpBackpacker
jeff1890
Back-er-in-er
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 1160


« Reply #7 on: September 28, 2011, 09:38:14 AM »

+1 for what ngatel  said.

I have an Expy and the f-150s were wired the same. If it came with the tow package the truck came with the relay. If there was no tow package the wiring is still the same but the user needed to buy the relay and fuse and intall tham. The fuse location is in the owners manual and right now I can't remember where the relay is but I believe it is in the relay box behind the engine compartment fuse box.

As others have said 8 guage wire(which ford has in its harness) is big enough to charge and run the fridge. how much charge, of coarse this depends on how long you trip is and how dead the battery is. 
Logged

Jeff, Fran and 5 kiddos   USA Pennsylvania
1984 Coleman Shenandoah   PopUp Gold
That I got for 50 bucks  Big Smile
and I restored in 2008
1998 Ford Ford  Expedition  SUV Black 
New to the fleet
2012 Ford Ford Mustang Convertable
I learn as I go
There are no stupid questions. Only stupid people who don't ask the question.
RonJ
Wheel Chocker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 21


« Reply #8 on: September 30, 2011, 05:43:23 PM »

I finished the isolator install. Purchased a MioPro 95 amp unit for O'Reilly's. Instruction sheet left a lot to be desired.
Searched the web and found instructions for a Sure Power 9523A-same isolator different company but much better instructions.
After reading every post I could find about installing isolators I decided to go with a heavier wire. I had 2 old 20' jumper cables (wire is multi strand fine copper wires and 5/16" in diameter). The insulation is old and cracking so I stripped it off carefully and then pulled the bare wire into a 1/2" diameter drip irrigation tubing. I fed this from the isolator  up along the frame back to the rear. I split the bare wires into 2 pieces and spliced them into a EzGo golf cart charger receptacle. The other half of the receptacle was wired similarily and run back to the battery in the camper.
Now if I understand what I read I need to run a similar sized line back for a ground. Is this correct or can I just make sure that I have good grounds and forget the heavier line?
A electrical check as outlined in the instructions showed all the correct voltages.
Logged
beemerphile1
Parking Heckler
*
Online Online

Posts: 3097


NE Ohio


« Reply #9 on: October 01, 2011, 08:20:35 AM »

That 95 amp isolator is way overkill but will do the job.  You must use the same size ground as the hot line.
Logged

Tim
32 nights camped in 2014
30 nights camped in 2013
33 nights camped in 2012
36 nights camped in 2011

Momma said; "If you argue with a fool, it makes it hard to tell which one is the fool".


2009 Pontiac Vibe 1.8L towing 2009 Aliner Sport  Chalet/AlinerCar Blue
1998 Ford E150 towing 2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900 TravTrl Long Blue Van Blue
1996 BMW R1100GS
2005 Trek Madone
1994 Burley tandem
Oz and Us
PUX is my life
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 28149


Burlington, Ontario, Canada


WWW
« Reply #10 on: October 01, 2011, 08:50:35 AM »

Oz means you don't need the isolator if you can always remember to disconnect the trailer when you stop for any length of time. However, I disagree, I don't want an always external hot wire/connection on my truck.

Correct, that's what I did mean.  OTOH I'm one of those who prefers to always have my Bargman's Pin 4 hot all the time because I often use that feed to power a variety of 12 vdc devices - air pump, my Poop Cannon, as a test source when I'm modding, etc. Approve
Logged

Oz Mods Gallery

'14 Freedom Express 192RBS / '05 Avalanche 4x2
'03 Fleetwood Yuma / '05 Avalanche 4x2
'08 KZ Spree 240BH-LX / '05 Avalanche 4x2
'07 RVision TrailCruiser C21RBH / '06 Silverado 4x4
2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe / '98 Explorer 4x4
'98 Jayco Eagle 10UD / '94 Caravan
'69 Coleman CT380 / '65 Impala

"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy!"
RonJ
Wheel Chocker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 21


« Reply #11 on: October 01, 2011, 08:57:16 AM »

beemerphile1-thanks for the advice. The 95 amp isolator was the only one O'Reilly's had in stock. I'll add the same size line for a ground.
Oz-Thanks for the info.
Logged
RonJ
Wheel Chocker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 21


« Reply #12 on: October 01, 2011, 05:56:27 PM »

I got the "same size" ground wire run but need to find a way to make the connection between TV and Pup. Only had 1 EZGO plug in the scrounge bin.
Logged
Pages: [1]
  Print  
 
Jump to:  



Powered by SMF 1.1.8 | SMF © 2006-2008, Simple Machines LLC