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Author Topic: Rockwood power lift  (Read 4757 times)
Rockford
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« on: July 19, 2011, 09:53:33 AM »

Anyone ever have issue with there's running away on them? I mean, you're holding the switch up and then let go and the switch comes back to the neutral position BUT THE ROOF KEEPS GOING UP!
It's happened a couple of times with our new camper and I've always been right there to push the switch down which does stop it, but obviously this should not be happening. On our last trip it happened just as I was nearing the upper limit. I was toggling the switch to the point where the guidewire would tighten and on what would have been my last little flip up to get it taught it kept going and pulled the wire out at the top. ARGH!!! I don't think it did any damage as I stopped it almost immediately. It went maybe a 1/4" beyond where I would/should normally stop.
I wonder if anyone else has experienced this phenomena.
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jacqui583
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« Reply #1 on: July 19, 2011, 10:19:38 AM »

I've got the 2010 version of your pup.  I haven't noticed this problem.  I mean it does take a second for the motor to wind down, you have to release the button just before you want the roof to stop.  Is this something new?  It was working fine and then just recently this has developed?
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Jacqui, Jeff, and our 100lb grandpuppy Thor. Cool
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Rockford
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« Reply #2 on: July 19, 2011, 10:43:53 AM »

The trailer is new. We only got it in May. And it's more than just that little wind down you're talking about (I know what you mean though). It's actually still under power when it happens. Maybe I have a faulty switch.
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CundiffClan
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« Reply #3 on: July 19, 2011, 01:08:09 PM »

I've noticed that mine sticks also.  I have to be careful when the roof is up.
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dakota2112
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« Reply #4 on: July 19, 2011, 02:06:14 PM »

My Rockwood 2270 (purchased new in Spring 2010) has done this to me on occasion during our first summer of ownership.  However now that I think back, I've noticed that the switch hasn't "stuck" at all this year.  Weird.   Question

To prevent potential damage, both because of the sticky switch and because that tension wire goes from slack to tight to overly tight in a real hurry... I took a Sharpie marker and wrote a big "3   2   1   STOP" on the lift post so that the "3" appears first, then "2", and so on.  When "STOP" appears, I let go of the switch, ready to give a burst down if necessary.  This gets me to within a few quick up bursts of being at the correct height, while leaving a little extra room in case of a runaway switch.

In fact I don't look at the wire anymore.  I drew a horizontal indicator line on the post so I know where the exact correct height is.

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Tom-TC
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« Reply #5 on: July 19, 2011, 02:31:10 PM »

Why not just replace the switch?   Cool
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dakota2112
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« Reply #6 on: July 19, 2011, 04:43:26 PM »

Why not just replace the switch?   Cool

I have a bunch of Sharpie markers lying around.  Heavy duty 12v spring toggle switches, no.   Tongue
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Blkvoodoo
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« Reply #7 on: July 19, 2011, 06:53:36 PM »

 the switch is sticking, it stopped on it's own once the winch tripped the limit switches in the winch assy. or you actually moved the switch to "down"

 Mine needs to be adjusted  to stop sooner, I would assume most do. after looking at my winch with top up, and " lift wire"  taut, there is almost 1/8" of gap between the limit switch and the stop bolt ( the adjustment for the stop)

 I've noticed the power drop while raising the roof, measured it to 12.1v ( 2 new group 24 interstates )  before top was all the way up. lower voltage crates heat, which raises amps, which creates heat, this heat will cause the contacts inside the switch melt together lightly.

this happens when the power gets too low ( the heat thing ) there really needs to be heavy duty relays or solenoids in the set up, but those cost $$, so cost is the factor again.
 
 the circuit breaker is  dual 25amp breakers bridged (50amps ? ), then there is a 60amp fuse in line. ( only on the lift side of the circuit ) how many amps can the switch really handle ?

 check out page 8
http://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/docs/tech/P3010402AV%20P55000%20Folding%20Camper%20Winch.pdf
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dakota2112
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« Reply #8 on: July 20, 2011, 07:08:08 AM »

Ah that makes sense.  This year I started introducing a pause in the lift process midway up, to give both the battery and the motor a short break.  Perhaps that was enough to prevent things from heating up enough for the switch contacts to get 'sticky' hence why it doesn't happen to me anymore?
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jeffr
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« Reply #9 on: July 21, 2011, 03:31:34 PM »

The switch on my rockwood is also sticky. I have a cable that attaches to the the wall leading to the roof and is screwed in there.  That cable is my gauge for the height that the roof should be, so when I get close to it being taught I need that switch to be a hair trigger, but thats not so anymore.  A few times it went up a bit much and pulled that cable out.  So what I do now is just have the wire for the winch laying loosly on the battery lead and when I am just at that final raising point I knock that wire off the battery.  Its a cheap way of solving the problem until I get around to buying a new switch.

Also, it makes me feel better knowing that my 4 year old cant fudge with that switch when no one is looking. 
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Squall Line
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« Reply #10 on: July 21, 2011, 09:35:03 PM »

I have an electrical / mechanical background [almost retired] and have been watching this thread for a day or two.

  First, you should never assume that NEW batteries are charged to max capacity. Always charge new batteries before using them. They WILL discharge sitting on a shelve in a warehouse or installed on a car, boat, camper, whatever. You should always make sure that they are fully charged and will hold a full charge before each trip, and re charged as soon as possible after each trip. Trust me I know, I have 6 group 27's on my boat.
 
Secondly, contacts can stick if the battery voltage is low, or if heat is caused from something binding, but the 50-amp breaker should trip first. The 60-amp fuse is a last resort [fail-safe] to shut the system down.

Third, the motor should not coast up, I can see down if it is weak or if the gearbox is designed poorly but once the toggle switch is released there should be no drift either way.

Iím not saying that there isnít a problem with your lifts[or that you are wrong] only that if everything including design is up to par and working correctly there should be no drift either way.

I for one would be curious as to Rockwoods answer to your problems???
« Last Edit: July 21, 2011, 10:40:57 PM by Squall Line » Logged

2012 Rockwood 1910
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