November 20, 2014, 06:07:15 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News:
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Gallery Login Register  
Pages: [1]
  Print  
Author Topic: How to remove bed rails/glides? 1990 Coleman  (Read 4470 times)
towtruck
Handle Cranker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 77


« on: September 16, 2010, 07:45:59 PM »

Hello

Thanks in advance for any advice. Referenced photos may be found here:
http://s539.photobucket.com/albums/ff352/towtruck07/popup/

Cleaning up after the last trip I noticed that the moving bunk rail on the front left side didn't slide all the way in (picture 5). I looked closer & saw that the aft two-wheel roller assembly had come detached from the bunk frame (picture 1 & 2). It seems I can use two screws with nuts to re-attach this as there does not seem to be a clearance issue, however I would need to remove the bed, and I do not know how to do this.

I suspect that the screw at the end of the intermediate rail (pic 5) must be removed to allow the bed frame to slide completely out, but the tab (picture 6) would still prevent the bed from being removed, and I don't see how to remove the tab without removing the bed first. Any advice??

Separately, I noticed that the wheel on the opposite rail was broken (picture 3). I suspect I can't buy just a new wheel, so I'm prepared to make one myself, but if anyone has info to the contrary, I'd be happy to know about it.

Thanks to all!
Towtruck
Logged

Towtruck
Clever tag-line coming soon....
mstrbill
Off Duty Moderator
Parking Heckler
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4142


Austin, Tx


WWW
« Reply #1 on: September 17, 2010, 02:42:52 AM »

you remove the bed stop with a right angle screwdriver. Preferably a ratcheting one. There is 2 philips head screws per bed stop.
« Last Edit: September 17, 2010, 08:51:21 AM by mstrbill » Logged

Bill

the Camping Poms: Joy, Tori & Bella the Yorkie
2008 Fleetwood Niagara Highwall -  PopUp Blue  SUV Black - 2004 Chevy Suburban LT
96 Coleman Bayport -  PopUp Blue Pickup Blue - 98 F150SC - lots of great memories, but got tired of fighting the sagging cracking ABS roof
towtruck
Handle Cranker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 77


« Reply #2 on: September 17, 2010, 08:15:47 AM »

Thanks mstrbill!

I would have never checked for that. Almost everything on the trailer is fastened with rivets, so I assumed that was the case with the bed-stop. And I even have a ratcheting right screwdriver! deal done!

Thanks again!
Towtruck
Logged

Towtruck
Clever tag-line coming soon....
RhinoDave
Chocks-a-lot
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 188


« Reply #3 on: September 17, 2010, 04:48:27 PM »

You shouldn't have to remove the bed stops. There are two small pins through the outside of PUP side wall where the the rail sides are next to the roof supports. They will have to be pushed out with a drift pin. Make sure you have the bunkend pulled out first and supported with a table or saw horses. After removing the pins, you can slide the support rails all the way out and then lift the bunkend up over the stops.
Logged
towtruck
Handle Cranker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 77


« Reply #4 on: September 17, 2010, 07:45:37 PM »

Awesome!

So that explains how to get the sliding rails out of the Pup sides. I'll figure out which method I'll use tomorrow when I take a close look at the trailer and look for those pins.

If I understand this all correctly, the tab removal method means I don't need to prop the bed with sawhorses etc., I just pull it out (w/ 2 people) once the stop screws & tabs are removed. Then I can pull out the slides if required.

One last question is whether the stop-tab screws screw directly into the top of the box, or whether there are nuts on the other side, in which case this might be less preferable as I would have to get inside the wall to put the tab back on. We'll see tomorrow!

Thanks all for all your help!
Towtruck
Logged

Towtruck
Clever tag-line coming soon....
mstrbill
Off Duty Moderator
Parking Heckler
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4142


Austin, Tx


WWW
« Reply #5 on: September 19, 2010, 07:12:21 AM »

They are screws not bolts. They help hold the front and rear panels on. And yes they are screwed into the 1x2 frame that fleetwood uses.

you can see some of the frame in the following pictures:

Rear Panel
« Last Edit: September 19, 2010, 07:17:05 AM by mstrbill » Logged

Bill

the Camping Poms: Joy, Tori & Bella the Yorkie
2008 Fleetwood Niagara Highwall -  PopUp Blue  SUV Black - 2004 Chevy Suburban LT
96 Coleman Bayport -  PopUp Blue Pickup Blue - 98 F150SC - lots of great memories, but got tired of fighting the sagging cracking ABS roof
Pages: [1]
  Print  
 
Jump to:  



Powered by SMF 1.1.8 | SMF © 2006-2008, Simple Machines LLC