July 30, 2014, 11:22:47 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News:
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Gallery Login Register  
Pages: [1] 2
  Print  
Author Topic: brake lights don't work when headlights are turned on  (Read 6798 times)
railroadman
Wheel Chocker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 16


« on: August 09, 2010, 09:36:12 PM »

I have a new TV, 2000 siverado pick up truck, 6 plug round with 4 plug flat on TV to 4 plug flat on pup.  Turn signals work fine.  Taillights work but seem too bright.  Brake lights work but seem to dim.  Problem is when I turn on headlights my turn signals do not work and my brake lights do not work.  Do you think I need a taillight converter?  I also have a tail light on the top back of cab on pick up.  I think Austinado mentioned something like this.     Thanks for any help.  JIM
Logged
EV2
Chocks-a-lot
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 309


Iowa


WWW
« Reply #1 on: August 09, 2010, 10:23:28 PM »

No, I think your taillight and brake light connections are incorrect.
« Last Edit: August 09, 2010, 10:25:58 PM by EV2 » Logged
gijoecam
Back-er-in-er
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 2345


« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2010, 04:05:50 AM »

I think either the connections at the brake lights are reversed, or you have a bad ground connection, or both.  5 minutes troubleshooting it with a 12V test light should confirm the diagnosis.

Good luck!
Logged

'03.5 Coleman Monterey  2004 Jayco Jayfeather 29Y, '00 Ford F-150 4x4

Gallery here

Light travels faster than sound.  That's why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
austinado16
Guest
« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2010, 07:53:31 AM »

^^Agreed^^

Brown is tail lights and running lights at least in "modern" trailer wiring.  You don't mention the year of your camper, so it may be wired with the old color patterns, so brown isn't running lights/tail lights.

Confirm (remove, clean, inspect reinstall) your ground on the TV frame is good, and your ground on the camper tongue is good, and if the problem remains, turn on the TV's running lights, test for that voltage at the TV's 4pin adaptor, and then make sure that the camper's associated wire goes to that exact TV pin location.

You may ultimately find it's cleaner and easier to have the TV set up with a 7pin round, and put a 7pin round on the camper.  Then you can do things like have the TV charge the camper battery during towing, and run the camper's fridge on 12v during towing.
Logged
railroadman
Wheel Chocker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 16


« Reply #4 on: August 10, 2010, 08:35:50 AM »

Thanks guys.  I will try all of the above today.  I want to go to Eagle Lake,Susanville.  Everything worked fine with my other TV.  I have a 1990 Starcraft Meteor.  No battery,no fridge.  I may have the wrong adaptor.  It has 6 slots for metal clips, but only 4 metal clips are in the slots, nothing in the middle hole.  The other end it has a 4 pin flat with little lights that light up when you turn on turn signals etc.  I have tried every combination hook up.  I had to buy a couple of feet of extra wire to make my harness longer.  Could it be I have different size wires(like 14 instead of 12 or 8).   JIM
Logged
wavery
PUX is my life
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 13076


TrailManor.......TRUE Pop-Up


« Reply #5 on: August 10, 2010, 10:09:49 AM »

Thanks guys.  I will try all of the above today.  I want to go to Eagle Lake,Susanville.  Everything worked fine with my other TV.  I have a 1990 Starcraft Meteor.  No battery,no fridge.  I may have the wrong adaptor.  It has 6 slots for metal clips, but only 4 metal clips are in the slots, nothing in the middle hole.  The other end it has a 4 pin flat with little lights that light up when you turn on turn signals etc.  I have tried every combination hook up.  I had to buy a couple of feet of extra wire to make my harness longer.  Could it be I have different size wires(like 14 instead of 12 or 8).   JIM
I would highly recommend getting rid of that harness converter ("6 plug round with 4 plug flat on TV to 4 plug flat on pup.").

My recommendation would be to properly wire in a new 7-pin connector set on the truck and trailer. They are not expensive and are available at most large auto parts stores or online at any of the Etrailer parts places. You may not use all 7 pins at this time but they will be there for your future needs. The 7-pin connectors are more professional in design, bigger and easier to work with.

This will take a lot less time than trying to troubleshoot your current set-up. I think that your issue may be n that converter.

Be sure to solder all connections and use heat-shrink (not electrical tape). Twist and tin (solder) the ends of the wires that you put into the connectors. This will avoid future issues with random wire strands floating around inside the connector (which could cause one of the symptoms that you have now). If you need to extend any wires, try to stick with the color codes (and wire sizes). Every time that you add a wire or connector, you increase the chances of future problems. If the colors are all mixed up, it will increase your difficulty in diagnoses (especially in the middle of the night, on the side of the road).

If you spend a few dollars and an hours time doing it right now, it will save you countless hours of headaches in the future.

BTW.......Some of your symptoms do sound like a bad ground.........that could also be caused by the converters though..........I wouldn't waste my time trying to repair a sub-standard system.
« Last Edit: August 10, 2010, 10:31:46 AM by wavery » Logged

Wayne, Carolyn & Sccamp 14  grandkids  ...Southern California
--------------
'98 Winnebago Adventurer 33
160W Solar Panels, Dual 6V Batteries

EX PU- '04 Trailmanor 2720SL........ 

3X PU '02 Coleman Tacoma

EX- TV - 2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 (ext cab) 157" WB.
railroadman
Wheel Chocker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 16


« Reply #6 on: August 10, 2010, 11:49:06 AM »

With everybodys help i fixed the problem.  Something i should have done in the beginning.  I took the taillights lens off and moved the bulbs around 90 degrees to the opposite contacts.  1157 bulbs with 2 filaments.  The brightness changed to normal, everything works fine and brake lights work when headlights are turned on.  After the camping season i will change to a 7 pin to pup since tv and trailer both have 7 pin ready.  Has anybody ever heard of this problem with bulbs?  Sure surprised me.    Thanks for all the responses.     jim, belmont,ca
Logged
wavery
PUX is my life
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 13076


TrailManor.......TRUE Pop-Up


« Reply #7 on: August 10, 2010, 02:38:28 PM »

With everybodys help i fixed the problem.  Something i should have done in the beginning.  I took the taillights lens off and moved the bulbs around 90 degrees to the opposite contacts.  1157 bulbs with 2 filaments.  The brightness changed to normal, everything works fine and brake lights work when headlights are turned on.  After the camping season i will change to a 7 pin to pup since tv and trailer both have 7 pin ready.  Has anybody ever heard of this problem with bulbs?  Sure surprised me.    Thanks for all the responses.     jim, belmont,ca
The bulb alignment pins are at a different spot on either side of the bulb and socket to avoid just that sort of thing from happening........I can't imagine how you got the bulbs into the socket 180* out of wack........ Roll Eyes
Logged

Wayne, Carolyn & Sccamp 14  grandkids  ...Southern California
--------------
'98 Winnebago Adventurer 33
160W Solar Panels, Dual 6V Batteries

EX PU- '04 Trailmanor 2720SL........ 

3X PU '02 Coleman Tacoma

EX- TV - 2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 (ext cab) 157" WB.
railroadman
Wheel Chocker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 16


« Reply #8 on: August 10, 2010, 04:03:29 PM »

easy.  the bulb goes in both ways on  my meteor.  pretty sure they were working that way with my other TV.  jim
Logged
wavery
PUX is my life
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 13076


TrailManor.......TRUE Pop-Up


« Reply #9 on: August 10, 2010, 04:13:18 PM »

easy.  the bulb goes in both ways on  my meteor.  pretty sure they were working that way with my other TV.  jim
The pins on the 1157 are offset. The correct socket will only allow the bulb to go in one way. Maybe your trailer has some sort of universal socket or something.....I've just never seen one.....

Logged

Wayne, Carolyn & Sccamp 14  grandkids  ...Southern California
--------------
'98 Winnebago Adventurer 33
160W Solar Panels, Dual 6V Batteries

EX PU- '04 Trailmanor 2720SL........ 

3X PU '02 Coleman Tacoma

EX- TV - 2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 (ext cab) 157" WB.
austinado16
Guest
« Reply #10 on: August 10, 2010, 08:50:55 PM »

Glad you figured it out.  I'm guessing the bulb holders on the Meteor are just loose enough that if you don't pay good attention, you can shove the bulb down in there clocked either direction.  I'm not saying you're an idiot, I'm saying the bulb holders are just not as precise as what might be used in the automotive world.
Logged
railroadman
Wheel Chocker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 16


« Reply #11 on: August 11, 2010, 05:26:00 AM »

right on. Not a very tight fit at all.  It wouldn't surprise me at all if they came loose down the road.  Thanks for the help Austinado.   JIM
Logged
wavery
PUX is my life
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 13076


TrailManor.......TRUE Pop-Up


« Reply #12 on: August 11, 2010, 10:03:29 AM »

right on. Not a very tight fit at all.  It wouldn't surprise me at all if they came loose down the road.  Thanks for the help Austinado.   JIM

It might be worth investing in new sockets. You can pick them up at most auto parts stores for a few bucks.

If the bulbs are loose in the sockets, that will encourage corrosion and you lights might actually be blinking as you drive down the road.
Logged

Wayne, Carolyn & Sccamp 14  grandkids  ...Southern California
--------------
'98 Winnebago Adventurer 33
160W Solar Panels, Dual 6V Batteries

EX PU- '04 Trailmanor 2720SL........ 

3X PU '02 Coleman Tacoma

EX- TV - 2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 (ext cab) 157" WB.
railroadman
Wheel Chocker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 16


« Reply #13 on: August 11, 2010, 01:37:40 PM »

I will look into that, but i would not call what I have a socket.  More of a metal ring to put bulb in sideways and it touches 2 metal contacts.  Also on the mounting bracket is a metal ring (with no contacts) that calls for a 1156 bulb.  I have no idea what that could be used for, unless it is a place for a backup light. 
Logged
austinado16
Guest
« Reply #14 on: August 12, 2010, 06:39:04 AM »

Yes, many tail lights have blanks where the backup lights would go "if" that tail light was built to have them.  It's actually a handy option, and if you wire up a 7pin round, you can make that center pin a power source coming from your tow vehicle's backup lights.

Put a little dielectric grease on those bulbs, install 'em, and they'll probably live happily for umpteen more years.  Otherwise, new Bargman tail light assemblies are only about $16ea or less, and you could upgrade to the version with backup lights if you wanted that feature to work.
Logged
Pages: [1] 2
  Print  
 
Jump to:  



Powered by SMF 1.1.8 | SMF © 2006-2008, Simple Machines LLC