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Author Topic: Best way to repair plastic window to canvas seams?  (Read 5463 times)
34UpNorth
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« on: July 29, 2010, 08:02:41 AM »

Hello! Greetings from a Newbie. Thank you for the opportunity to join your forum! We are currently tent campers  and looking to buy a PUP. Some of the ones we have looked at have a seperated section and wonder how easy (or hard) it is to repair. One was almost like it was cut right next to the canvas (88 Coleman) and the other was pulled away but still intact with the stitching holes in the plastic (94 Starcraft Starflyer).

The second one can probably just be restitched. The first one appears that it would need a new section of plastic adhered to the window and then restitched in. Is this a costly repair to do or does the whole canvas/window section need to be replaced? Also what is the best way to repair cuts or holes in the plastic windows which are away from the seams?

Otherwise we are having a fun time looking at all the different brands & floor plans. We are on a fairly tight budget and are leaning towards finding a early to mid 90's Coleman. In our price range we realize that we will need to do a few repairs but are trying to avoid making a purchase with repairs that end up being expensive. Any insight is much appreciated! Thanks again from a Newbie!!!
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HappiKampers!
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« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2010, 01:36:02 PM »

There are many ways to fix ripped canvas, from iron patches, sewing or liquid stitch - people all over the forum have used them all with great success.  We have used the iron on canvas patches for the holes and I have sewn rips (where edges meet nicely) with some fishing line and then coated the inside and outside with seam sealer.  Has worked very well with no leaks.

For the vinyl window though, if it's just a separation of the window from the canvas, you could try the same method I used for stitching the canvas or you could remove the panel and take it to an upholstery shop or marine shop for a fix.

I had two dime size holes in my vinyl windows, I used RV Awning repair tape from the inside and outside (sticky area then bonded to itself in the hole) and it is holding up VERY nicely.

For small holes in your vinyl bunk ends, people have been using VLP Vinyl/Leather repair kit from Performix.  It's clear and "melts" the surrounding area to creat a really nice fix.  I had holes in my vinyl bunk ends (dang critters) that were from a golf ball size to nearly a baseball size.  For those areas, I actually used Eternabond Webseal on the inside and outside (again, sticky area bonded to itself).  The webseal has fabric like texture to it that can be painted to match the vinyl color.  Since Eternabond is made for sealing roofs, the stuff works great at patching holes and making them weather proof.

A good thing to keep in your PUP tackle box is a roll of RV Awning tape (or tenacious tape) that is great for fixes!  We also keep a couple rolls of colored duct tape too that can patch up almost anything until a permanent fix can be made.  I also keep needle and thread for rips in the canvas or in a screen.

Good luck in your PUP search adventure, it's very exciting!
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Midwest Gals and a boy - South Burbs of Chicago!
2004 Four Winds Hurricane 30Q
1988 Starcraft Nova completely renovated in 2011 (for sale)
1997 GMC Jimmy 4x4
Char '68 Martini
Heidi '65 Martini
Payton '03 Evil
PUP nights in 2009:  4
PUP nights in 2010:  15 and wish it had been more!
PUP nights in 2011:  25 - a new record!
PUP nights in 2012:  3
RV nights in 2012:  2
http://happikampers.wordpress.com for our blog of trips and mods!
Brian
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« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2010, 07:58:36 AM »

+1 ^^Excellent response, Happikampers! Smile^^

34UpNorth-

Welcome to the PUX!
You didn't mention the model of the '88 Coleman, but I think either camper would be a great choice. There are many of us here happily camping in older Coleman and Starcraft campers. I think 1988 was a particularly good year Wink

Good Luck, Brian
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34UpNorth
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« Reply #3 on: July 31, 2010, 09:52:34 AM »

Thank you for the Welcome! It was a Shenandoah, but it got sold. By the way, up to what year did Coleman/Fleetwood use Aluminum roofs? Did it vary with the model? It sounds like the aluminum ones are a little more easy to deal with than the ABS.
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Brian
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« Reply #4 on: July 31, 2010, 03:33:26 PM »

IIRC, the ABS roofs are on 1996-2004 Coleman/Fleetwoods, but not all models in those years. Fortunately the ABS roofs are easy to spot and IMO avoid!

Another thing I like about the older Colemans (and Starcrafts) is that you seemed to get more camper, with less features (and less weight) than later models. For example Coleman in the 80's was still selling the Williamsburg 11 ft. box @ 1480lbs dry, able to be towed with a 1-7/8" ball. The comparable current model the 12 ft box Westlake is 2155 lbs dry and requires a 2" ball. The 2010 Westlake also has a 180lb hitch weight compared to 120lbs for the 1988 Williamsburg.

Now there is no doubt that the 2010 Westlake is very nice, comfortable camper that will probably give many years of trouble-free service. But if you want an easy to tow, easy to set-up camper with not a lot of frills, it is hard to go wrong with a well maintained older camper, expecially if you are a little bit "handy" Wink

Good Luck,
Brian
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BEER!California      DH-61
Illinois   DW-66
California DS-87
Texas DS-93
Texas DD-96
Texas DS-98
Texas DD-01
Ozzie the camping Basset
Big Smile    YES it's 5!
 SUV Red Nissan 2008 Nissan Pathfinder
 PopUp Grey 2010 Palomino Banshee B-2
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