Dual Propane Mod question

[sherpaxc]

I've done several searches using different key words but can't find what I'm looking for but I'm pretty positive it's on here.  I have a single propane tank on my tounge.  Next to it is the battery box.  Under both of these is some re-enforced steel cross bracing.  All this is on the back side of the tounge (nearest camper, not TV).  What I'd like to do is move the battery box forward and add a second tank where the box was.  That part will be easy.  What I need to see is how people of mod'ed their tounge for the battery box.  I don't weld so using any type of metal won't work, but and pretty handy with wood and painting/sealing anything. 

What is out there?

I know some will ask why I'm doing this and the answer is simple.  My family will be doing a lot of Boondocking this summer, hopefully moreso than just dry camping or full hook ups.  We have a baby and the wife wants to be able to use the hot water heater for bottles and bathing and we'll be cooking almost all of our meals so that propane will get used a lot.  (Oh, and proabably be adding an extension for the catalytic heater).

PS.  Mod's are addicting.

[Oz and Us]

I think you'll be surprised at how far a single 20 lb tank of propane will go provided you don't use a furnace which is a gas pig ... for cooking though it'll last a long, long time.  That said, I've always been a fan of adding a tongue platform to any trailer we've owned ... this is our Santa Fe, this is our TrailCruiser hybrid, this is our current KZ Spree travel trailer.  Platforms were added for different reasons but the approach was the same ... 1/2" plywood cut to match the profile of the A frame, sealed with several coats of black enamel paint, and screwed to the frame.

[sherpaxc]

Total consumption use will be used for
1.  Fridge
2.  Cooking
3.  Hot water heater
4.  using the catalytic heater at night

These will be everyday uses.  Worth it or not to add an extra tank?

[mstrbill]

You can order the battery tray kit which is installed on the tongue in front of the Propane tanks. Any Fleetwood dealer should have it or be able to order it(and probably ship it to you), it comes with the battery pigtail, it used to cost about $35.

[onecolumbyte]

Total consumption use will be used for
1.  Fridge
2.  Cooking
3.  Hot water heater
4.  using the catalytic heater at night

These will be everyday uses.  Worth it or not to add an extra tank?

I'd add the tank. I love mine, if just for the fact that I can run a tank dry, and continue to operate after switchover. With one tank if you do run out, your out of operation until it's filled and you've driven out and back...

Consider using self tapping sheet metal screws for the battery box etc. These will work fine to attach angle or plate to the tounge, you could put down some dimond plate with some self tappers along the edge and have a very nice platform.

[sherpaxc]

Thanks.  I was thinking the exact same thing for the mod.  I'll be working on that as my next mod for sure.

[beemerphile1]

Maybe you could just change to a single 30 pound tank.  That would give you a 50% increase.  I find that battery power is much more of a concern when in the boondocks than LP gas.  Depending on your use a single 20 pound tank should last a few days to a week minimum.  We were just out for five days and only used 4 pounds of LP. 

I use a digital fish scale to monitor the LP usage.

[ngatel]

Dual Propane/Battery on a small PU

[Peep]

The funny thing about propane is, it only runs out while youre using it. This is usually at 3am when it is 40 degrees. I will allways have a spare ready to go! I know you said no welding, but maybe you could have a local shop do it. I had to make the tie downs for the second tank out of steel rods and threaded the ends. Here are pics of what I did................







Hmmm. pics not working. I'll try again later.

[cat97628]

Dual Propane/Battery on a small PU

That's awesome. Where did you get the parts to do this project and about how much did it run you? I have a 08' Starcraft 2406 and would love to add another battery and tank. Thinking of Solar at some point as well but that will have to wait.

[ngatel]

It was several years ago. I got the parts at an RV Supply store (not Camping World). I think the most expensive part was the regulator. Excluding the extra tank, cost was well under $100.

[MrShadetree]

Just had neighbor welder complete my conversion over to a dual propane set-up, One for the furnace, and one for cooking, so if the furnace tank runs out before the cooking tank then switch go for another re-fill, next trip in town!
We also decided it would be better to put the bottles as close to the front as possible for the weight distribution reasons, so we opted to "float" the battery box directly behind the bottles. All the welding work that was done to complete my project could of easily been assembled with self-taps, and some angle iron, I just opted for the project to be welded instead of screwed, but screws will absolutely work, or you could drill the holes and nut & bolt the assembly!
That being said here's a couple pics of my project 1 before and several after!

[skipro]

Nice job!

[Alter Ego]

Consider using self tapping sheet metal screws for the battery box etc. These will work fine to attach angle or plate to the tounge, you could put down some dimond plate with some self tappers along the edge and have a very nice platform.

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER do this. Trying to hold a 50 lb battery and two 40 lb propane tanks with sheet metal screws is a recipe for disaster. These things wouldn't hold up in a panic stop, let alone a collision.

These things don't have to be welded. The rails can be bolted to the tongue. I wouldn't use any less than 3/8" grade 8 bolts. Use 3/16" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" angle for the new rails. The dual propane bottle base can then be bolted to these rails (same size bolts - use at least 4) as can the battery box. It is OK to affix the battery box to the rails with sheet metal screws as long as the battery holddown clamp is bolted THROUGH the steel rails.

Although it was welded, here are the pictures of my conversion.

http://s620.photobucket.com/albums/tt285/tomjefferson/camper/Tongue%20work/

[SkipD]

Consider using self tapping sheet metal screws for the battery box etc. These will work fine to attach angle or plate to the tounge, you could put down some dimond plate with some self tappers along the edge and have a very nice platform.

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER do this. Trying to hold a 50 lb battery and two 40 lb propane tanks with sheet metal screws is a recipe for disaster. These things wouldn't hold up in a panic stop, let alone a collision.

These things don't have to be welded. The rails can be bolted to the tongue. I wouldn't use any less than 3/8" grade 8 bolts. Use 3/16" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" angle for the new rails. The dual propane bottle base can then be bolted to these rails (same size bolts - use at least 4) as can the battery box. It is OK to affix the battery box to the rails with sheet metal screws as long as the battery holddown clamp is bolted THROUGH the steel rails.

Although it was welded, here are the pictures of my conversion.

http://s620.photobucket.com/albums/tt285/tomjefferson/camper/Tongue%20work/

I agree.  Safety should be the first consideration, and many do-it-yourselfers just don't have a clue about what sort of strength is required for safety.