Counting Amps...

[Jeff-oh]

I currently have an inoperable power converter.  It is a 20 amp system.  If I count the amps right I could potentially over load this system...

Lights:
3 double lights
a bunk remote and
one by the door = 8 bulbs at 18W = 12 amps

Water pump= 7 amps

CO2 detector amprage=?
Heater control circuit, fan etc. = ? amps 

The water pump and light alone eat up 19amps...

If I have to replace the converter...  Why not go to a regular breaker box, and then provided independent converters to cover lights,  Water pump, and the Heater/CO2 circuits.  Small converters are a very inexpensive and there would be future redundance if one fails.

I do not have a battery, though to include I could run that as an independant circuit with an automatic charger in the loop.

Would be a little more manual labor to switch form one to the other, but we have yet to camp where we could not plug-in...  yet.

Thoughts?

[cruising usa]

Check out bestconverter.com.  They stock many brands. I replaced the Elixr in my PU with a WFCO 8725. It is a direct replacement. It has Four 12V circuits and a three stage charger built in.  Took about and hour for the actual replacement. Each 12V circuit can be fused up to to 20A.

Ken

[clemlaw]

CO2 detector amprage=?    =  practically zero.  I think ours says 45 milliamps = .045 amps.  So it really doesn't make any difference.  [The 45 mA is our propane detector.  If the CO detector is hard wired in, it would be even less.]

Heater control circuit, fan etc. = ? amps   =  probably about 3 amps.  Ours has a 4 amp fuse.  I had to replace it (after a SPUT) and didn't have another 4 amp one.  I replaced it with a 3 amp fuse, and it hasn't blown yet.

[Bama Rambler]

I'd recommend going back with a replacement converter and adding a battery.

Here's Why.
• Most of those individual converters aren't regulated and the regulated ones are expensive
• If you go with individuals you'll have to find units that will supply at least 12 amps to have any redundancy and that's gonna one big honking thing. PLus you'll need at least 3 of them.
• You'll need a separate battery charger if you go that route.
• You should have a battery onboard anyway and a breakaway system. Most states require one on anything over 1500 lbs.

I'd go with a larger model and one that has a three stage charger in it. Time you buy all the individual units and a battery charger you'll be be about the same expense as buying a bigger converter.

[clemlaw]

Oh, yes, I agree with Bama Rambler--I missed that part of the original post.

A single 30 amp converter ought to do the job just fine.  It's unlikely that everything in the camper will be turned on at the same time.  So even if you discover that you have 31 amps worth of stuff, you can get by with a 30 amp converter.  But it is quite possible that you will have all of the lights on at the same time.  So if you have one converter for just that circuit, it will need to be big enough to accomodate them all.

Our replacement 30 amp converter was about $129.  I would have gone with a better (slightly more expensive) one, but I went with an exact replacement just to make the job easier.  So plan on about $150 for the 30 amp converter.  I doubt if you would save much money by getting smaller converters for individual circuits.

Adding a battery would give you a buffer, so if you're drawing 31 amps for a short time, your 30 amp converter could handle that.  However, in our case it was the battery (which was totally dead, unbeknownst to me) that caused the first converter to fail.  So I probably wouldn't add a battery just for reliability, although it comes in handy for camping without hookups.

[Jeff-oh]

Check out bestconverter.com.  They stock many brands. I replaced the Elixr in my PU with a WFCO 8725. It is a direct replacement. It has Four 12V circuits and a three stage charger built in.  Took about and hour for the actual replacement. Each 12V circuit can be fused up to to 20A.

Ken

Yes, you are of course right... It has 4 circuits, 1 for lights and the other three are the other items....

[Jeff-oh]

While reviewing converters I thought I was seeing a Pyrimid 18 amp version for $20.00 but that was a bait and switch price....  $20.00 is the 5 amp version....  $130 for the 18amp version.  Thus, my idea would not be cost effective.

Anyone know if American has fixed the quality issues with the CS2000 series.

Finally, I see there is an American CS3000XT replacement the seems to be made to just drop in the old chassie.  Does the whole unit need to be removed from the Pup?  (I presume yes) if yes is there a better brand to look at?  Features I should look at.  or the CS3000XT is decent.

I guess in any case the next step it to pull the unit and open it up to see what is wrong.

Thanks for the replys.

[rabird]

ask Andy

WFCO 8700 series

[gijoecam]

I'd recommend going back with a replacement converter and adding a battery.

Here's Why.
• Most of those individual converters aren't regulated and the regulated ones are expensive
• If you go with individuals you'll have to find units that will supply at least 12 amps to have any redundancy and that's gonna one big honking thing. PLus you'll need at least 3 of them.
• You'll need a separate battery charger if you go that route.
• You should have a battery onboard anyway and a breakaway system. Most states require one on anything over 1500 lbs.

I have to disagree with that one...  Modern converters are not very big at all...  I had ours out a few months ago (unrelated project) and it was only about 6" deep.  I honestly expected something a LOT larger (but I'm used to dealing with AC transformers)...

ask Andy

WFCO 8700 series

Ditto.  Our WFCO (I think it's an older 8735) is rated for 30A (new ones are 35A for $140), and it's not large at all.  That plus a good battery and we seldom draw enough juice to even get the fan to kick on.

-Joe